Photographic Makeup Application Tips
Makeup for photography deals specifically with effect, as the camera picks up details that the eye may miss. A corrective makeup can only correct so much, the rest is up to the photographer to scrutinize any flaws and watch for the right moment to capture a flattering expression. The photographer has the ability to correct and create a look using angle and lighting. Lighting is one of the most important aspects of the shoot, and the makeup artist needs to understand the lighting in order to apply the correct makeup for the conditions (or you need to understand if you are doing your own makeup). Harsh light is very contrasty and dramatic, but will show up flaws more. Direct light tends to be dramatic, but can make skin look uneven, and care must be taken with shadows (which could be contributing to your problem with dark circles). A softer light may help hide flaws, or if the photographer bounces the light off a reflector board, umbrella or diffuser, as will changing the angle of your face.
Blending is one of the most important techniques of a good makeup, as the camera will pick up obvious lines (such as badly blended eyeshadow or contouring). My makeup students know my “blend, blend, blend” chant well ![]()
Balance is equally important. Train your eye to judge balance, especially when doing more advanced and corrective makeup, look for uneven application i.e.. one cheek higher / larger than the other; eyebrows shaped evenly, and lips are the same size and shape on both sides.
* Where do you apply your photographic makeup? Home, studio, location – consider the lighting. Does the quality of light where you apply your make-up for the shoot give you an accurate idea of the lighting used in the photos. The secret is to know the lighting, and allow for differences between the light you apply your makeup and the photoshoot light. Check the makeup under the studio lights prior to shooting, and make any adjustments necessary. A polaroid will also give you a better idea of the lighting, especially if diffusers or lighting effects are effecting the end result.
Makeup tips for fair skin:
* Really fair skin tends to have very fine, invisible pores, can be translucent, and a tendency to be dry; with a little extra help and some spot conceal (hide dark circles, blemishes and other imperfections), blended with brush, you will have a flawless finish. Building the foundation up in layers will give the appearance of a softer, more natural looking makeup.
A good base is all about the skin – aim to improve the color and texture of your skin rather than applying a thick base for a flat allover effect. Fair skins can be washed out with too much light. Apply a not-too-pink cream blush to the apples of your cheeks, to add color.
If you are working with color film, stay away from hues with too much blue in them, as this will bring out under eye circles.
Makeup tips for deep-set eyes:
* A couple of good tricks to makeup deep-set eyes: use a narrow line of eye shadow in a light shade on the eyelid above the lashes. Apply a mid shadow just below your eyebrow, and utilise your natural contour for more of a sheer makeup look. If you want to build on this, for a more dramatic look, apply darker makeup on the area above the crease and gradiate with the color under the brow. Blending away any stripes of makeup or harsh lines. Apply mascara only to the base of your top + bottom lashes if your eyes are extremely deep-set.
Fair eyebrows are a bonus of fair skin, as you can often work the shape without having to tweeze excessively. Darken blonde brows with an angled brush stroking in a darker ash tone blonde or taupe.
Enlarge deep-set eyes by shaping and raising the space between the eyes and brows. Lift the brows subtly with a highlighter or pencil shading a little above the bone – blend well. Perfectly balanced brows requires precision tweezing, so use concealer or base to help your brow shaping. Draw the brow shape you want in with a powder or brow pencil, then block out (with the concealer) the hairs that need tweezing. Draw in one brow at a time, so you can see the difference, and to make sure you are happy with the shape / result. Tweeze from side to side, taking a few hairs from each side to maintain precision and balance, rather than doing one brow then trying to match the other brow…
Other makeup links that may help with covering your dark circles are:
Covering overly dark circles
Dark Circles
The best shots are a combination of: working your best angle (one trick for minimizing shadows is to stretch your face out from your neck a little and look up at the camera); posing for a shot (to emphasize your bone structure, to tilt your head slightly); projecting your image; and knowing how to tap into projecting your beauty from within!! The right makeup and fashion styling finish the image, creating the total picture! You are then in the hands of the photographer, whose job is to bring out the inner and capture the outer beauty.